We are still in times of upheaval. Corona is only partially related to this, but has some influence in that it hinders some processes and accelerates others enormously. Political, social and societal changes affect all areas of life – including the textile world, of course.
Let’s take a look at the trends in embroidery and textile decoration for the spring-summer 2023 collection:
Nature meets high-tech and creates excitement, implemented here with elegant mother-of-pearl buttons sewn on with neon-colored polyester threads.
Mother of pearl buttons by Gritti (IT), sewn on with Gunolds POLY
We find organic structures in prints and embroideries. They are often implemented in natural sand and brown tones.
SULKY (viscose) ombré yarn, design: GS UK
3D looks remain a strong theme, either realized with special 3D foams and techniques, or through the ingenious placement of different stitch layers on top of each other.
3D embroidery from www.madebykasia.com
This work by Irene Körting, Reutlingen University, looks like a modern tapestry:
Modern “Gobelin” embroidery by Irene Körting, Reutlingen University
The skilful digitization of embroidery patterns also ensures the three-dimensional effect of a flat embroidered pattern and thus tension in the garment.
3D effect through clever digitizing. Design: GS UK
Classic, partly folkloric and traditional patterns are brought to life by being implemented on thematically unfamiliar fabrics or alienated using other techniques.
Left: Cord embroidery by Irene Körting, Reutlingen University
Right: Combination of classic and cord embroidery by Irene Körting, Reutlingen University
Another application of layering is embroidering over classic embroidery motifs with a thin, transparent monofilament.
Left: “INVISIBLE” monofilament embroidered over a classic embroidery motif. Idea and realization: Maurice Ettl, fashion school in Sigmaringen
Right: Embroidery with transparent INVISIBLE thread over classic embroidery. Theme: Seab (IT)
Fringes and loops will be found frequently, but also in a modern context. The example shows an embroidered flower using the fringe technique, the modern look is achieved through the use of reflective yarn on reflective fabric.
Gunolds CRY Reflective Yarn on Regine IQtrim Reflective Fabric, Design: GS UK
In the area of sustainability, innovative products are celebrating their entry into the new collections, for example embroidery threads made from organic cotton, here embroidered on Peace-Silk.
Left: Cotty 30 BIO on Peace Silk. Design and embroidery: Modespitze Plauen
Right: COTTY 30 and PUFFY 3D, design: GS UK
Or fabrics and materials are used that are made from post-consumer or post-industrial waste, such as the “pre-loved” patterns presented in the photos, embroidered with copper and neon-colored fancy yarns.
Embroideries with Gunolds SULKY viscose thread on pre-loved Studio Sarmite material
Left: Gunold POLY in neon pink on pre-loved material by Studio Sarmite
Right: Embroideries with Gunolds SULKY viscose thread on pre-loved Studio Sarmite material
Both well-established brands and innovative start-ups have understood that a special seam also serves to entice the consumer and prove that a lot of love and attention to detail has gone into the garments. Attractive yarns and stitch types immediately create special effects and unique looks. Not “only” embroidered, but also sewn…
Left: effect seam by Patrick Pfeiffer, Sigmaringen fashion school. Yarn: Poly by Gunold. Sewing machine: Pfaff
Right: Effect stitching made of SULKY multicolor yarn on reflective tape by Regine IQ trim. Design: Leonid Matthias
Left: Effect seams by Ronja Paschen, fashion school in Sigmaringen, with SULKY viscose yarn (multicolor) and water-soluble SOLVY. Machine: Pfaff
Right: effect seam by Jutta Erb, fashion school in Sigmaringen. Yarn: Gunold sewing machine: Pfaff
Reiner Knochel for Gunold, January 2022 / All threads: Gunold / All photos: Reiner Knochel